Neil Walks Shetland and Beyond: July 2017

TGO Challenge 2017

Glenelg to Montrose

I left Lerwick on the Tuesday night Ferry then caught the train on Wednesday morning to Inverness.
Here I caught the bus through to Invergarry where I changed busses and travelled onward to Shiel Bridge. I had a feed in the Kintail Lodge before phoning a taxi (no busses available until tomorrow) to take me over the hill to the Glenelg Inn where I had booked 2 nights accommodation.
The Inn turned out to be excellent with a great atmosphere in a superb location. Most of the other Challengers that were starting from Glenelg gathered here at night for a feed and a Beer. Any trepidation I might have felt was soon eased as the other walkers were so friendly and welcoming.
On the second night here I had the pleasure of meeting Ali one of the events main organisers who was also starting from Glenelg. She told me that I was the first Shetlander to have attempted the TGO challenge and that I was this years most Northerly entrant.

On Thursday I did a 6 mile walk to loosen the legs and to try clear a heavy cold/chest infection that I had picked up before leaving Shetland. I visited Dun Froddan and Dun Telve Brochs. The latter is the 2nd tallest Broch after our own Mousa Broch.

Thursday night was quiz night in the Inn and I met Shap an experienced TGO Challenger, who was very encouraging to me as a new start. He was camping near the Inn and we met again for Breakfast before the start.

Glenelg

War Memorial

Dun Telve

Friday morning turned out to be sunny and calm as I set off at 09:20Hrs. I took 2 paracetamols to ease my Chest.

I followed the road for the first few miles then up a forestry track through the woods

Heading towards Beinn Sgritheall

Past the South side of Lochna Lochain, wrong choice it would have been easier and shorter going the North Side

Eventually found path above Creag Ruadh then it was just a matter of grinding it up to the summit and my first Munro at 974 metres.

Trig Point show signs of wear. The weather broke as I approached the Summit which made the spectacular views unphotographable but still great to see.

Looking back at Beinn Sgritheall from the top of the next summit at 906M.

I came off the top taking a false path too far towards the South, should have gone more easterly, so had a worrying descent for the first half hour on my backside among scree and lose rocks. eventually I managed too traverse to the East and join the rough and steep track to complete my descent Arnisdale.

I joined the Road and walked on past the Lodge and camped near the river further up Glen Arnisdale.

Daily Mileage 13.9 Miles
Ascent 4073 feet.

Day 2 woke to Cuckoo's calling and watched Sand Martins flying over my tent to the river from their nests in a sand embankment . When I crawled out I startled a stag and 6 hinds that were grazing nearby and watched them head for the hills across the river.
Set off up Glen Arnisdale. Chest appears OK but throat still not good, constantly coughing.

Gruesome encounter coming down into Kin Loch Hourn.

Stopped to eat at a tearoom in Kinloch Hourn and met 3 other challengers. Leslie and Brian were from Miami. They had started from Mallaig taken a ferry to Knoydart and walked around to Kin Loch Hourn. With them was "JJ" (John Jocys) a vet of the Challenge who was on his eleventh crossing. As the weather was misty above we all decided to take our foul weather alternative route which was following the single track road towards Invergarry.
Johns route was similar to mine for the next few days and he suggested we walked together to Fort Augustus. I was delighted with this as I was still a bit nervous about the walk.

Gentleman JJ, always smiling.

Brian and Leslie pushed on when John and I slowed a bit as John had a slight hot spot on one foot.
A few miles later we met Ray and Dave in pouring rain at the Bridge at Loch Cuaich they were heading up the Loch into the wilds hoping to meet the Legendary "Pie man". My original plan was to Camp at the Bridge but as it was raining heavily and I had agreed to walk with John we pushed on to camp below the road at Alt a Ghobhainn river where we met in with Brian and Leslie again.

Daily Mileage 20.9 Miles
Ascent 3536 feet
Ray, John and Dave who was on his 10th crossing

After a night of constant rain and a poor sleep due to coughing and sore throat we said cheerio to Brian and Leslie as they set off into the rain. We decided to wait for a break in the weather. Luckily the rain stopped and after shaking out our tents we set of for Invergarry.

JJ checking out an old phone box.

A fine collection of Hub caps

We caught up with Leslie and Brian among some highland coo's.

Daily Mileage 15 Miles

Ascent 1487 feet

In Invergarry I spent the night in the Hotel to try to be kind to my cough. After bath, big feed and a couple of pints felt a bit better, but still had trouble sleeping due to persistent cough.
Next day I met up with John, the Pieman (Mike Knipe) and his son. We walked together to Fort Augustus where I again booked into a hotel with a bag of remadies that I had sourced from the local chemists. At night I had a yarn and a couple of pints with JJ and Bert Hendrikse who spoke fondly about some of his Shetland friends that I knew.

We got a feed at the local chippy, It filled a hole but was not up to Shetland standards.
Cant beat the Fort or Happy Haddock Chip shops in Lerwick.

JJ, Pieman and Son.

Not a company, but certainly good company.

The famous Locks at Fort Augustus.

Daily Mileage 8.6 Miles
Ascent 875 feet

Found this on the church door. Fantastic, so true!

After a comfortable night in the Caledonian hotel I woke with bleeding nose and cough but felt it might be shifting. (Didn't realise I had passed it on to Mike Knipe. Sorry mate :)
After a big breakfast I met JJ and we got stocked up for the cheese and wine party at Chalybeate spring then set off after the others.

The South end of Loch Ness

We caught up with the Manchester Crew, a great bunch of characters.

The hydro road was being used by some seriously heavy vehicles a bad sign of things to come.

We encountered heavy rain and wind as we reached the top, but it slowly cleared as we neared the end of the days walk.

The Moorland was so altered by the new roads that even the old hands like Andy Walker , who had been here prior to the construction damage, had difficulty finding his bearings to Chalybeate spring.

A large digger dwarfed in the foundation hole for a wind turbine

The massive cement works, built in the middle of the Moor to supply the thousands of tonnes needed in the windfarms foundations.

Look out!

At last, our campsite at Chalybeate Spring

Rupert arrives.

Teas Up

We toasted the demise of Chalybeate Spring, the area was formally a great example of wilderness now given over to a windfarm and ruined for the foreseeable future. My first and sadly last visit.
I felt awful thinking of the carpet baggers that are trying to commit the same crime back home in Shetland. Some people will do anything for a fistful of grant money. It was amazing to see how much of the peat Carbon sink that had been destroyed putting in the roads and foundations.

Daily mileage 18.5 Miles
Didn't record ascent.

JJ and Rupert ascending Cairn Ewen 875M, Newtonmore bound.

We ascended Carn Odhar 895M, Beinn Odhar 870M had lunch among snow patches then across to Snenchdach Slinnean 919M, Carn Ban 942M then Carn Dearg at 945M.

Yours truly and JJ posing before Carn Dearg. Very Cold!

Rupert and JJ.

Remarkably Rupert meets an acquaintance from his childhood school on the top of Carn Dearg and they reminisced about old teachers.

We set off down past Loch Duich.

When I reached the Loch, I realised that the others were some distance behind. I decided to push on as I hadn't booked anywhere in Newtonmore and was freezing from doing the tops. Note to self, take a warmer set of clothes next year. One thing though my chest and throat was feeling much better.

I managed to get a pitch at the local campsite and met up with Tim and Karl from the Manchester Crew for a Beer.

Daily Mileage 13.9
Ascent 1487 feet.

Next Morning I met JJ at the Newtonmore Hostel and walked with him and Mike "Croydon".
JJ had arrived late after taking a tumble and losing his glasses. Rupert had decided to camp before Newtonmore. I felt bad having pushed on ahead, but JJ as always was the perfect gentleman about it.

The magnificent Newtonmore Hostel.

Passing The Ruthven Barracks.

Croydon another Legend of the Challenge

Saying farewell to JJ and Croydon at Baileguish Bridge. A coming of age moment yikes I'm on my own now! Thanks for all the mentoring, JJ,
God bless.

JJ's is going up Glen Feshie, I'm heading for the Lairig Ghru.

Passing Loch an Eilein.

Ruined Castle on Loch Eilein.

Camp at unnamed Loch 1 mile before the Cairngorm Club Footbridge.

Daily Mileage 19.3 Miles
Ascent 1430 feet.

A sail past in the morning.

Chest and throat is now OK had best camp to date and feeling strong.

Cairngorm Club Footbridge.

Starting up the Lairig Ghru (Mark Bolan)

Felled tree " I will Survive " (Gloria Gaynor)

Ptarmigan still in winter plumage.

A stoat fancies Ptarmigan for lunch.

Looking back at Aviemore.

A fellow walker heading to Aviemore warns me that the forecast isn't good. I decide to push on to Braemar rather than camp at White Bridge as planned.

I salute Ben Macdui as I pass below it, my mother climbed it as a student teacher over seventy years ago. Cheers Mam, I bet you would still give it a go.

I spot Corrour Bothey on the other side of the River Dee.

I cut over the pass to Derry Lodge.

After a short stop for a much-needed cup of tea at Mar Lodge, I push on into Braemar as the rain and wind start to pick up. Hurray a hotel and a beer beside a roaring fire.

Daily Mileage 23.2 Miles

Ascent 2699 feet.

I thought about having a rest day in Braemar as I am a day ahead of schedule but decide to do a short walk to Gelder Shiel to keep the legs ticking over. I meet Brian briefly and he explains that Leslie has had to pull out with a swollen knee. It is sad news as She was doing so well when we parted company.
It is heavy rain for the whole walk so I take no photos.
I decide that I will need a better jacket next year. My RAB Kinetic is fine as a shower proof but can't cope with a deluge.
I get a bunk at the Bothy, but it soon fills with a family of day trippers and the kids get set to sleep on the floor. I decide my Debut in a bothy will have to be on another night and give up my bunk for the quiet of my conscience and the tent.

Daily Mileage 9.8 Miles

Ascent 1319 feet

I love the home-made toilet seat. Excellent!

The morning is clear but a bit windy, Lochnagar is tempting.

The weather closes in at the Summit with sleet and wind, but it is nice to have done it.

The rocks and path are wet on the way down and I take a couple of tumbles hurting my right knee. I intended to camp at the foot of the falls but decide to get some more miles in just in case it seizes up tomorrow and limits my mileage.

Luckily, I meet up with Gavin and Lynn at the Spittal of Glenmuick as I am treating my Knee with an anti-inflammatory cream. They are heading for the Bothy at Shielin of Mark, which isn't easy to find. I tag along and Gavin finds it first time, great navigation in poor weather, thanks Guys. We camp beside the Bothy.

Daily Mileage 15.3 Miles
Ascent 3708 feet

I decide to forgo an ascent of mount Keen as planned and head directly to Tarfside in the Morning. My knee is tight but thankfully loosens up during the walk.

Sun rising over Mount Keen.

Shap wringing out his socks.

The magnificent Team at St Drostans who cook the most appreciated grub on the planet.

My trusty Big Agnus Copper Spur 2 at the Tarfside Campsite.

Daily Mileage 11.1Miles
Ascent 822 feet

From Tarfside I have the pleasure to walk to the campsite at North Water Bridge with Byron Davies. This is part two of my walking education after part one with JJ last week. We stop for a second excellent breakfast at the retreat, then hotfoot it to Edzell for Lunch. I nearly fainted when I tasted the sticky toffee pudding. Its then quickly on to the campsite for the night, before a short haul into Montrose in the morning.

The only Photo I have of Byron "Mad bad and dangerous to know" A serious walker and the usual view anyone has of him, unless they are a good runner!

Daily Mileage 16.2 Miles

Ascent 775 feet

Set of early to Montrose in sunshine.

Arrived at the Beach and had photo taking by a lady called Louise who was taking a stroll, the Morning after her daughter's wedding.

Daily Mileage 9 Miles
Ascent 434 feet