Wednesday, 30 May 2018

TGO 2018 Kilchoan to Corbies Knowe







TGO 2018 
Kilchoan to Luna Bay

I left Shetland on the Monday night ferry and arrived in Aberdeen on Tuesday morning.
I took the train To Edinburgh to visit my son Liam who is studying at Herriot Watt University and later took train through to Glasgow and stayed in the Premier Inn near the station.
The following morning I took a bus to Fort William where I camped overnight at the Glen Nevis camp site.
The camp site agreed to keep a cache of supplies for me that I would pick up in a few days time.
The 13:50 Hrs bus to Kilchoan is not pre bookable and I was glad to be first in the queue, as every seat was full. There were quite a few challengers on board as the small bus serves 3 of the challenge start points as well as being a local life line.  
It was a long but scenic drive and the whole journey had a "Postman Pat" sort of feel to it. We had dozens of stops and pick ups but arrived as predicted at 17:45Hrs.







Passing a cruise ship as we leave Lerwick Harbour





Arriving at Aberdeen Harbour




.
We had a pleasant nights stay in the Kilchoan Hotel, which was also the Challenge sign out point.
I met a few familiar faces from last year, Andy, Shap, Sue and Neil and met a few new. I was disappointed to miss JJ and Mike Knipe (the pie man) as they would only be arriving later during the morning after we had left.
The first days forecast was poor with winds and rain expected in the afternoon and through the night but after all what did we expect. Sun??
I had invested in a better jacket for rain protection this year and was sure it would be tested. My RAB Event should be perfect.
As it happens apart from the first afternoon, I would have got away with my old RAB Kinetic for the whole trip as we had an unprecedentedly sunny crossing.

Leaving the Start at the Kilchoan Hotel









I walked the first couple of miles with Shap along the road, then he headed for the hills after Sue. I stayed on the single track road heading West as I wanted to visit firstly Corrachadh Mor which is Britain's most Westerly Mainland point and then Sanna Bay. I had wanted to visit the bay for years after I discovered that there was a bay with the same name as my youngest daughter Sanna.






After a few miles I caught up with Alan Jordon who had set off a little before me.
We walked together for a few miles then we parted as he went to the Ardnamurchan light house for a visit and I went cross country to the most westerly point.




Ardnamurchan Light House






Viewing Ardnamurchan Light House from Corrachadh Mor, Britain's most Westerly point


Looking back at Corrachadh Mor.





A short cut through the Caravan site




The first Glimpse of Sanna Bay.






It was strange to see my daughters name written every where it felt as though she had been on a graffiti spree




The sky was getting increasingly more grey and the wind was picking up, feels like rain.



At last Sanna bay beach.
I picked up a few shells to take back to her.




 The wind was whipping the sand of the beach and I had to glinder my eyes to avoid filling them with grit.



The rain started as soon as I left the beach and I bumped into Alan Jordon again. We agreed it might
be an idea to walk on together and try to find a suitable camp site. This took rather longer than we thought as my planned site turned out to be an exposed marsh. The wind and rough ground limited possibilities elsewhere. We eventually decided to head for what appeared to be a ruin on the coast at Eilagadale.
As it was it turned out to be a gated and boarded up summer house but we found separate camp sites for the night, Alan up the hill and me at the sea shore.
Daily Mileage 23 Miles
Ascent 2669 feet

The morning turned out beautiful just as the forecast had predicted.
I had told Alan that I was going to take my time in the morning and dry out my tent and socks and that he shouldn't wait as he liked an early start, That allowed me to linger and enjoy the early morning sun. After a feed I set off.


Looking back down at campsite

Another beautiful beach, the singing sands.


The sand does actually make a noise as you walk over it.






There was a choice of two paths and I took the least travelled one. It was beautiful but I had to crawl under and over at least a dozen and a half fallen trees over the next couple of miles, it must have been a coarse winter here with a few gales.


 Beautiful Kentra Bay



Agricultural Art



Back on the road

I had done 10.5 miles that morning so I stopped and had a pleasant lunch in the Loch Shiel Hotel at Acharacle.
I then set of cross country through a fire break in the forest to Claish Moss.



This turned out to be pretty hard going and had the worst hags I've had to contend with it was like walking over a field of dead cows. I stayed near to the South East side but was soon soaked from falling and sliding of the tops of the hags into the gutter in between. I headed to what appeared to be a small island oasis with a croft ruin on it called Torran with a view to camping overnight and recouping my strength. When I got there I was soaked and realised that I would get another soaking getting away from there the next day so decided to carry on and headed for the Loch shore, hoping there might be a beach to walk along.



Success! There was




 I continued on until I reached a disused Jetty around the corner from Achnanellan.


It was a cracking site and I soon washed off and settled in.


St Finans chapel and Burial ground on Island opposite my camp site




Daily Total 16.3 Miles
Ascent 2130 feet



It was a lovely morning as I set off again. I had blistered my left little toe the day before due to the mud ingress so had taped it up. Unfortunately I hadn't taken any Vaseline as Blisters is something I haven't had in years after discovering Solomon 2 GTX boots. Mistake!



The beaches eventually run out



I had to climb inland and dodge my way through trees for about three miles.
The last mile before I hit the road at Polloch was again a horrible hag filled Marsh where I filled my boots again.


The Forest Road to Glenfinnan was a surprise relief after the marsh.





The walk along Loch Shiel was Beautiful with sun and a cooling breeze






I had a few stops to air my feet and Compeed the sore toe.









At last the Jacobite uprising monument, and the Harry Potter viaduct (Glenfinnan)




I eventually found a great pitch near the Glenfinnan car park and settled in for a quiet night

Daily Mileage 19 Miles
Ascent 3622 feet
A hard day but good to say you have done it.
Little toe left foot not liking it.



Early morning I set of along A861 toward the Camusnagaul Ferry.



Car Kill



 There's Harrys train.


Snow still on Ben Nevis


Stop to say hello to a fellow Sheltie


The Ferry Arrives





 Disembarking at Fort William.


The Camp Site where I pick up my supplies and stay the night.
I have a welcome shower but find 4 unwelcome ticks, I manage to dispatch 3 cleanly but leave the biggest ones nose sticking in my leg, luckily it doesn't bring any infection and I get it out two days later.
Daily Mileage 16.6 Miles
Ascent 1355 feet


Next morning is a bit colder and greyer as I set off up Glen Nevis.







First sighting of Steal Falls





Wow it's much higher than I imagined. The small black dot below it is a sightseer.






 The path to the water fall was quite busy with day trippers as was the bridge.
No thanks I'm heading further up the Glen




Steall Ruins



At last clear paths the sightseers don't go past the falls


A river crossing at the watershed



 Heading down river now after the morning heading up another.



Luibeilt Ruins



I pass Meanach Bothy but don't visit.




I stopped briefly at Staoineag Bothy to tend my feet and meet Niels from Demark, who kindly gives me some Vaseline for my feet. I have decided I wont look at the little toe as the Compeed is sticking on well.

I push on to camp at the deserted Creaguaineach Lodge.

Daily Mileage 17.7 Miles
Ascent 3152 feet







Morning brings more sun and I set of towards Corrour Station.
 Looking back at my campsite


The train blasts his horn as it passes by.



I get talking to a man with Shetland connections. He is off for a days walking. I think his surname was Pearson.

Corrour Station, where I got a friendly welcome and a first class breakfast.



 After Breakfast I head along the East side of Loch Ossian and pass the much admired Loch Ossian Youth Hostel


Past some beautiful flowers







 Once past the Loch I head for the Watershed below Ben Alder







The Watershed crossing is in the dip ahead with Ben Alder to the right.


 I start to catch some Challengers




 I cross the Watershed


Looking down to Bealach Dubh






I manage to take a tumble into a burn, probably needed the wash anyway, but boots filled again.
I intended to stop and camp outside the Culra Bothy, but decide to change my socks, do an extra couple of miles and try to walk the boots dry.


The Boots dry out quite a bit and I camp at Loch Pattack.
Daily Mileage 20.1 Miles
Ascent 2817 feet




The other Challengers start to gather around the Loch.


Another beautiful morning as I set off towards Dalwhinne.






Forestry work ahead





Looking back down Loch Eircht



A train passes as I approach Dalwhinne



I have Lunch in Dalwhinne and speak to Sue and some other Challengers before heading on.


Dalwhinnie Distillery the Highest working distillery in Scotland


 Dalwhinnie Inn where I had breakfast


 Hydro Substation


 Loch Cuaich


Looking back at Loch Cuaich



    Off the Road for 3 miles of Heather Bashing to reach Glen Tromie, feels like being back home.



My Vetter Bert had advised that the bridge was out. 




I manged to Ford the river



Passing Bhran cottage on my way up the Glen


I camp 3 miles later after a weir at Alt Bhran and steep feet in burn.

Daily Mileage 22.8 Miles
Ascent 3230 feet.


Next Morning I follow paths and forestry roads for 6 miles into Glen Feshie.






Glen Feshie



 I have to ford the river three times in the Feshie, still it cools the feet.










 I start passing more challengers again as they admire the falls..











Its great to meet them.






I camp overnight beside a ruin before Ruigh nan Clach, where the Geldie and the Bynack burns meet and quite a few other challengers that I passed earlier in the day do the same. I have a chat with them and then settle down for the night.

Daily Mileage 18.8 Miles
Ascent 2925 feet.






Nearly frosty overnight so a cold but clear start to the day.


A grouse has a chat.




I see several Challengers camped near White Bridge




I meet quite a few at Mar Lodge, including Shap and Mike "Croydon",  the tea and biscuits are a treat.
Many thanks.





I leave Mar Lodge for the short hop into Braemar



The ornate Victoria Bridge as you leave Mar Lodge






I get booked into the Hotel, the last room, I was lucky as the camp site is fully booked. Apparently there is a walking festival on.
Bath time.

Daily Mileage 12.1
Ascent 834 feet
A nice short day.
I have some food and meet other challengers in the Bar.


 I admire the buildings as I leave Braemar in the morning



And have a yarn with a biker with his new Bike


That would do nicely


 off again, heading for the famous Loch Callater Lodge.

I have a nice couple of miles walk there in good company.


The Legendary Loch Callater Lodge. 




And the legendary Mine Host.











Toilet in Stereo



 The other challengers told me the forecast was for winds on the top of Jocks road of up to 55mph.
Some thought they may camp at the bottom and come over tomorrow.














Looking back at Loch Callater




It was windy on the top but only for a couple of miles.







As I descended into Glen Doll the wind couldn't get me.


 A poignant reminder of the potential dangers with severe weather




The Emergency Shelter.











My route into Glen Doll








Onwards into Glen Clova





A Pheasant stroll








I stopped to ask permission to camp at the Glen Clova Hotel and when I see the price of a room and Breakfast decide to spoil myself. I got a huge family room in the Annex which appeared brand new plus all you could eat breakfast for £70. Bargain!
Plus I missed the wind and rain overnight. No contest.
Daily Mileage 20.5 Miles
Ascent 3048 feet.

Next Morning the sun was back out


And so were the Pheasants





And their Chicks





A few miles down the road


 Then back up the hill








Across Glen Moy







 A trap at Buckies


 I had intended to Camp at Baikies but felt too fresh and it was so early in the day so I pushed on.











I had a lovely Lunch in the Drovers Inn. Very Welcoming.



After Lunch I decided to Just wander on towards Forfar






Reached Forfar and Booked into camp Site.
Met 3 Other challengers and ended up having a Cheese and wine party.
I should have taken some of the Mushrooms with me.
Daily Mileage 23.7 Miles
Ascent 1874 feet






The Next morning was bright again as I set off.



Fredrick the Morning after the night before.





I stopped 3 miles out of Forfar and used my pocket knife to burst the blisters around my little toe, 
one was under the toe nail and this eased the pressure greatly, I probably should have done it sooner but was afraid to look. Still live and learn.















I took a number of side roads and paths From Forfar and eventually



I reached the cottages at Corbies Knowe 








Luna Bay. I stuck my toe in the water and then headed along the Beach to Red Castle







Look kids even old men can try to do a selfie


 I phoned Ali and the Team at Control to let them know I had got to Luna bay and was going to walk back to the Park Hotel



Red Castle






Looking back at Luna Bay as the weather gets colder

At last Montrose






Cheers.

Ali Sorting it all out


The stalwarts who make it happen.


I have come in quicker than planned so have an Indian meal at night in the Town.
Daily Mileage 27.5 Miles
Ascent 1690 feet.

Total mileage of Walk 238.2 Miles or 383.3 KM
Total ascent 31286 feet or 9536 Metres
an average of 19.8 miles per day.

I catch up with the other challengers the following day as the rest start to arrive.


We attend the first celebratory dinner on Wednesday night



 Emily, the TGO Editor, and Ali Welcome us to the meal.







And present the tenth crossing awards.


Well done sir. Ali knows what its about, she did her tenth crossing last year.


I am so chuffed at being at Byron Davies 10th crossing celebration after walking a leg with him last year.
 Legend









Byron reflected in his reward.



I briefly have time to say hello to JJ on Thursday before I Set off home. Great to catch up, will hopefully have time for a longer chat next year.


Route Summary
I really enjoyed my Route. I think another year I will try to go Higher and reduce the mileage on roads and Forestry tracks.
The route I took avoided any windfarms, whereas last years route was not so lucky.
Ideally another year I will have time to walk the whole 15 days.
I wont make much alterations to my gear, but will ensure I take a selection of Socks.
My usual Bridgedale socks, that are perfect in Shetland, proved to be a a bit thick and made my boots feel a bit tight when my feet swelled due to mileage and heat.
Thankfully I had one pair of thin socks that I was able to use. 
Next year I will take 2 of each
I have thought about trying shoes but still cant get my head around voluntarily walking with wet feet.
I soaked my boots on the trip, firstly in a hag ridden marsh where shoes would have been a nightmare, probably would have lost them, and later in a river but was able to dry them out by sticking on woollen socks and walking for a couple of miles in them to suck the water out. Although the hot weather helped a lot there in drying them out.
Other note to self remember Vaseline for my feet.


2 comments:

  1. An excellent record Neil - with lots of familiar faces and places!
    :-)

    ReplyDelete
  2. Enjoyed that account too. I find injinji toe liner socks really good to help with blister prevention, thin smooth and soft. Kevin

    ReplyDelete